Customer Reviews for VEVOR Fender Roller Heavy Duty Roll Fender Reforming Extending Tool Wheel Arch Roller Flaring Former for Automobile Maintenance (Fender Roller)

Handy little tool but you may have to modify it to fit your application. Take your time on the inner fender well. Slow and steady with continuos pressure rolls the inner lip very nicely

To be honest I was worried I'd have to return this after reading some of the 3 and 4 star reviews about fitment. It is possible that some units arrive defective if they are mass produced. I used this on a 96 Civic DX hatchback and had no issues at all. Look up videos on youtube on how to do this right so you don't screw up your paint job or bend the metal too far out. The tool definitely paid for itself although it was a little time consuming to get it all done right.

Works well, lubricate all screws and roller before using to avoid breakage or premature wear. Heat the paint with heat gun before rolling to avoid paint cracking. Solid tool. Good price.

It works. A little wobbly. Super tedious especially for square wheel wells and to keep paint good.

Cheap tool, but it worked really well with a little modification. I just had to make the holes bigger to fit my Dodge Charger.

This product worked as designed and it was fast shippinig.

This tool used to be $400 back in the day... now that Eastwood started making $89 versions its dropped, and this $49 chinese version is even cheaper.The issue with this version is the lack of a drilled hole in the end of main adjustment screw. The more expensive versions had a drilled hole, a castle nut and cotters pin to lock it at the end. The current chinese versions just supply a single-use nylon lock-nut and 2 thick spacers. The implication is that the rotation of the screw will pivot the nut and one spacer against the other one...but under load (which is how you use the tool), the spacers drag and eventually unscrew the nut... in a catastrophic "dissassembly".Impact wrench tightening the locknut doesn't help, you just can't move the screw to adjsut it.The only solution other than drilling a hole and using a castle-nut/cotter pin is to use a larger nut as a jam nut, and tighten them down with an impact wrench.As is, I had to remove the tool from the hub about twice on every wheel I did. Time lost, and possible damage to fingers and car when it happens... you REALLY have to watch the bottom nut as it backs out.Get a better locking design on that rear nut and you're golden. ;)