This is the best constructed product I've bought. It's got a heavier, though it should be more, base for heat retention and fantastic added features incuding: include condenser circulation pump, quality brass fittings everywhere and stellar stainless dogs and handles. My impressions after running a vinegar distill to clean everything out is as follows:#1 there is absolutely no need for handles anywhere. Remove still pot handles and still lid handle. Anyone can use the lid dogs as anchor points if the still pot is rocking an rollin.#2 Lid Geometry.Lid dogs should be at 45, 135, 225, and 315 degreesLid temp gauge should be ~2/3*lid_diameter @ 270 degreesCondenser out should be ~2/3*lid_diameter @ 0 degrees#Condenser PotCentered at lid:-----Left-handed cooling:----------Valved input and output should be ~ 160 degrees----------Condenser Product Output spigot should be ~ 200 degrees-----Right-handed cooling---------Valved input and output should be ~ 30 degrees----------Condenser Product Output spigot should be ~ 200 degreesPipe observations:*Still lid output pipe should fit condenser input or gin basket input** This means that gin basket output pipe must fit condenser input** There is no need for the 90 degree copper bend pipe that is supposed to go from still_lid_out to gin basket in. Just include two pipes that will fit still-to-condenser and still-ginBasket-condenser.*Get rid of the short copper pipe and tube from the condenser out. Put it a 12-18 inch surgical tube like the tubes for the circulation pump but that fit the condenser output. It's much more convenient.Finally, no one needs the fermentation valve if they're buying this product. Save yourselves some money. And if you're going to make it a kit, meaning I had to assemble mine, make sure there are gaskets for above and below connections as well as a roll of teflon tape. That'll be much more useful that the extraneous copper pipes and fermentation valve.
James 
