For all the reviewers complaining about how it functions on arrival, remember, the hard work has been done for you, and is delivered for ~$150. How on earth you're expecting an additional 4-6 hours of "finishing" labor to be included at that price it is beyond me. Think of it more as a 98% finished $500 cross-slide at a crazy discount so long as you are willing to put in the sweat equity. After you disassemble and clean all the factory goop out of it, clean all of the parts, carefully de-burr the slides and hone them nice and smooth, grind the gibs a bit so they ride at the proper height in the dovetails and de-burr if necessary (mine were nearly perfect), then repack the thrust bearings and reassemble the acme rods careful to align so they don't bind or seem "bent" (the reports of bent acme rods are likely due to being offset slightly (loose manufacturing tolerances I'm sure, one of mine was dead center, the other was offset by .052" which made it appear bent during dry assembly since the thrust race was seating at a slight angle, so when reassembling I added a thin washer that seated nicely against the acme thread/rod axle shoulder thrust bearing race seat), and finally added a large lock-washer behind the hand wheels to eliminate a chance of rubbing against the slide body. I didn't put any spring tension on the thrust bearings, just lightweight torque barely past hand-tight, but I may in future. And the complaints on the paint job are warranted for sure, it's sloppy as can be....but it's not bad to the point of any negativity, just clean up any of the splashover and get on with it, just mill something already and don't worry about the paint job so much, you're going to be coating the entire slide with a thin film of oil through normal usage, maintenance, and whatnot, it should remain fairly well protected from airborne humidity...Edit after I figured out the scale, the numbers are very wrong like others mentioned, and the graduations are all screwy, clearly it was not intended to be used on this device, probably handwheels that were originally for something else, or maybe some other vague alignment... who knows, like I said, they're screwy. But the breakdown is 4mm per revolution, it looks like they tried very unsuccessfully to divide it into 30ths. With a dividing head or a compass/printout/whatever, mark the wheel for 40ths, as-in .01 mm per graduation on the wheel scale X 40... The, albeit minor, irritating part of that of course is you're stuck in metric since this translates to a vague .1575 inches per revolution. I think I'll stick to the metric scale and simply do the conversions, I mean the wheel scales only get us so close anyway, bust out the calipers and mics for precision...
Anonymous 
